A beautiful face needs perfect brows, period. The key thing is they have the shape that goes with the facial features. Only then you can do or tint your brows and achieve desired effects. That's why brow mapping is extremely important. Do you want to know how to do it properly? Can you do it easily at home? How to shape the brows? Read our guide.
What's brow mapping?
Do you dream of beautiful brows that are harmonious for facial features? Brow mapping is the thing that will determine their perfect shape, considering all details: brow width and length, distance between the brows, the place where they start, arch and end. If done well, brow mapping restores symmetry to the brows and entire face, keeps it young-looking and defines the eyes. It is so precise that some call it 'brow architecture'. It involves drawing lines and marking the key points - thickness, width and length of brows.
Properly-done eyebrow mapping is a basic step if you want to fill in, tint or pluck your brows. It's worthwhile. If you don't think you’ll manage yourself, then entrust your arches to a pro. A brow artist will do it best.
How to sculpt the most beautiful brow shape for your face shape?
The eyebrow mapping technique aims at creating the best brow shape for our face features. The rule of opposites comes useful: if a face has sharp contours, then go for softer arches, and the other way round. See which brow shape is best for you.
Eyebrow styling essentials - brow mapping
How to determine your best brow shape?
Drawing and marking three lines is the most popular method. You can do it using a thin stick (like a food skewer), the end of a thin make-up brush or a professional string for brow mapping. The three lines mark three critical points: start, end and arch of brows. How to get around it?
#1 START OF BROWS
Place your tool - for example a pencil - vertically from the dimple of the nose. The line should cross the brow - that will show you the start of the brow so mark it using a brow pencil for example. Note: if you've got a wide nose, the pencil should be placed around 2 mm away from the inner eye corner. this way you achieve precision and the brows won't be too far away from each other against the eyes.
#2 ARCH OF BROWS (HIGHEST POINT)
Now place the pencil diagonally from the dimple of your nose to the middle of the iris - the place where the pencil crosses the brow is its highest point. The brow begins to narrow and lightly moves downwards to form a so-called tail.
#3 END OF BROWS
You can mark this point by placing the pencil from the dimple of the nose to the outer corner of the eye. The line goes through the brows to determine when they end.
Eyebrow mapping: the horizontal lines technique
Using the above three points technique is extremely helpful when determining the brow shape, however, pro brow artists take a step further. To make sure the brows are even and the same height, they take some more measurements and mark horizontal lines. They help achieve the perfect thickness of the brows and the same height of the arches to ensure the harmony and symmetry.
1. After marking the three points showing the start, arch and end, draw a line that connects the brows.
2. Now you can use a ruler to transfer the three lines on the other brow - the horizontal line between the brows is the reference point.
3. Use a pre-inked string. If you haven't got one, then use a thread and apply a tiny amount of toothpaste or liquid concealer on the thread - when you press it to the skin, it will leave a mark. Tighten the thread and press it along the lower brow line so it creates a visible mark. It will cross the first vertical line you created before. Mark this point.
4. Do the same by pressing the thread horizontally to the upper brow line and the arch (the highest point). By doing so, you determine the perfect thickness of the brows, the same height of the arch and symmetry between the brows.
5. Finally, make sure the brows are symmetric and have the same thickness - you can press a thread or pencil to the lower and upper line. Remember that only 2/3 of the brow needs to have the same thickness and only the tail is narrower.
Eyebrow mapping at home - is it doable?
If your face is symmetrical, then you probably won't have any problems with doing the brow mapping on your own - all marked points and lines will let you sculpt the most stunning arches. The thing may get tricky if the face shows some disproportions, e.g. very wide or narrow nose, widely-spaced eyes. In this case you'll need to get it done by a brow expert who's qualified and experienced taking proper measurements and determining the perfect brow shape for your face.
What to use for brow mapping? Essential pro tools for eyebrow architecture
To achieve the highest precision and symmetry, make use of specially-made measuring accessories. They will make the task easier and help sculpt the perfect brow arches. An inked string is an essential at any brow salon. The light or dark pigment creates striking lines that are necessary to do the brow mapping. Such ink is gentle on the skin and doesn't cause allergic reactions. Pigments are water-soluble.
A brow mapping compass ruler is also extremely popular. Such a measuring tool is made from plexiglass and has 4 legs that help maintain symmetry while determining the critical points of brows. A self-adhesive sticker has a similar effect. It's disposable and has two scales for each brow. You stick it on the line between the brows and mark the points. Still, brow caliper is the most professional mapping tool which ensures precise measurements and you can operate it and adjust it easily so it goes with your brows.